/* Wide Eyes, v2: photographic and minimal.
   Colours and fonts live in the tokens below; everything else reads from them. */

:root {
  --ink: #14171c;
  --paper: #fafaf8;
  --muted: #6b7078;
  --jade: #12655a;
  --rule: #e3e2dc;
  --block: #efeee9;
  --sand: #e8e2d7;
  --sage: #dbe2dc;
  --clay: #e8dbd1;
  --stone: #dededa;
  --display: "Instrument Serif", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --ui: "Karla", system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  --read: "Source Serif 4", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --wrap: 76rem;
  --measure: 40rem;
  color-scheme: light dark;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root {
    --ink: #e9e7e2; --paper: #121416; --muted: #9ba1a8; --jade: #5fbfb0; --rule: #2b3036; --block: #1b1f23;
    --sand: #25231f; --sage: #1f2522; --clay: #28221f; --stone: #222427;
  }
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-padding-top: 1.25rem; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--paper);
  color: var(--ink);
  font-family: var(--ui);
  font-size: 17px;
  line-height: 1.6;
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
}
img, svg { display: block; max-width: 100%; }
a { color: var(--jade); text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 3px; }
a:focus-visible, button:focus-visible, summary:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--jade); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 2px; }
.wrap { max-width: var(--wrap); margin-inline: auto; padding-inline: 1.5rem; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -9999px; top: 0; }
.skip:focus { left: 1rem; top: 1rem; z-index: 20; background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); padding: 0.5rem 0.8rem; border: 1px solid var(--jade); border-radius: 4px; }
.visually-hidden { position: absolute !important; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); white-space: nowrap; }

/* ---------- masthead ---------- */
.masthead { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.masthead .wrap { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.75rem 2rem; padding-block: 1.25rem; }
.wordmark { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.6rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; line-height: 1; }
.wordmark .mark { width: 1.9rem; height: 1.9rem; color: var(--jade); flex: none; }
.wordmark b { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: 1.85rem; letter-spacing: 0.005em; }
.wordmark span { font-family: var(--display); font-style: italic; font-size: 1.1rem; color: var(--muted); margin-left: 0.4rem; padding-left: 0.95rem; border-left: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.nav { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem 2rem; }
.nav a { font-size: 0.76rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; padding-block: 0.35rem; border-bottom: 1px solid transparent; }
.nav a:hover, .nav a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--ink); border-bottom-color: currentColor; }

/* ---------- shared type ---------- */
.kicker { font-size: 0.72rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.15em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--jade); margin: 0 0 0.8rem; }
.meta { font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0; }
.meta a { color: inherit; }
.dek { font-family: var(--read); font-size: 1.2rem; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--muted); margin: 0 0 1.1rem; max-width: 36em; }
.more { display: inline-block; font-size: 0.76rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px solid currentColor; padding-bottom: 0.25rem; }
.more:hover { color: var(--jade); }
.crumbs { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; font-size: 0.78rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0 0 1.6rem; }
.crumbs a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.crumbs a:hover { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: underline; }

/* ---------- covers: a photo, or a contour map until the photos arrive ---------- */
.cover { position: relative; overflow: hidden; margin: 0; background: var(--sand); border-radius: 2px; }
.cover.tone-2 { background: var(--sage); }
.cover.tone-3 { background: var(--clay); }
.cover.tone-4 { background: var(--stone); }
.r-3x2 { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; }
.r-4x3 { aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; }
.r-16x7 { aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; }
.r-21x9 { aspect-ratio: 21 / 9; }
.cover img { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; }
.cover .topo { opacity: 0.34; transition: transform 0.8s ease; }
.cover-label { position: absolute; left: 1.1rem; right: 1.1rem; bottom: 1rem; font-family: var(--display); font-size: 1.65rem; line-height: 1.05; color: var(--ink); }
.cover-label small { display: block; font-family: var(--ui); font-size: 0.64rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.18em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: 0.4rem; }
.cover.big .cover-label { left: 1.6rem; bottom: 1.4rem; font-size: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3.2rem); }
a:hover .cover .topo { transform: scale(1.04); }
a:hover .cover .photo { opacity: 0.94; }
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) { .cover .topo { filter: invert(1); opacity: 0.2; } }

/* ---------- homepage ---------- */
.feature { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1.3fr) minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 3.5rem; align-items: center; padding-block: 3.5rem 4.5rem; }
.feature-media { display: block; }
.feature h1 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 4.4vw, 3.7rem); line-height: 1.04; letter-spacing: -0.012em; margin: 0 0 1.1rem; }
.feature h1 a, .card h3 a, .row h2 a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.feature h1 a:hover, .card h3 a:hover, .row h2 a:hover { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 0.12em; }
.feature .meta { margin-bottom: 1.75rem; }

.section { padding-block: 1rem 4rem; }
.section-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem 1rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--ink); padding-top: 0.9rem; margin-bottom: 2.25rem; }
.section-head h2 { font-size: 0.76rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; margin: 0; }
.section-head a, .section-head .count { font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.section-head a:hover { color: var(--ink); }

.card-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 3rem 2.25rem; }
.card-grid.two { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
.card-grid.one { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 36rem); }
.card-media { display: block; margin-bottom: 1.2rem; }
.card .kicker { margin-bottom: 0.55rem; }
.card h3 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: 1.8rem; line-height: 1.1; margin: 0 0 0.65rem; }
.card-dek { font-family: var(--read); font-size: 1.02rem; line-height: 1.55; color: var(--muted); margin: 0 0 0.85rem; }

.quote-band { background: var(--block); padding-block: 5rem; margin-block: 0 4rem; }
.quote-band figure { margin-block: 0; text-align: center; }
.quote-band blockquote { margin: 0 auto; max-width: 44rem; }
.quote-band blockquote p { margin: 0; font-family: var(--display); font-size: clamp(1.7rem, 3vw, 2.6rem); line-height: 1.18; }
.quote-band blockquote p::before { content: "\201C"; }
.quote-band blockquote p::after { content: "\201D"; }
.quote-band figcaption { margin-top: 1.6rem; font-size: 0.74rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.15em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); }
.quote-band figcaption a { color: var(--jade); }

.dest-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 2.5rem 2.25rem; align-items: center; }
.dest-note { font-family: var(--read); font-size: 1.05rem; line-height: 1.6; color: var(--muted); margin: 0; max-width: 30ch; }
.dest { display: block; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.dest-text { display: flex; align-items: baseline; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.4rem 1.5rem; padding-top: 1.1rem; }
.dest-name { font-family: var(--display); font-size: 2.2rem; line-height: 1; }
.dest .more { margin-left: auto; }

/* ---------- country page ---------- */
.page-head { padding-block: 3.25rem 2.5rem; }
.page-head h1 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: clamp(3.2rem, 8vw, 6rem); line-height: 0.95; letter-spacing: -0.02em; margin: 0 0 1.25rem; }
.rows { padding-bottom: 3rem; }
.row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 1.25fr); gap: 3rem; align-items: center; padding-block: 2.5rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.row-media { display: block; }
.row h2 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 3vw, 2.4rem); line-height: 1.08; margin: 0 0 0.75rem; }
.row .card-dek { font-size: 1.08rem; max-width: 34em; }

/* ---------- story ---------- */
.progress { position: fixed; top: 0; left: 0; right: 0; height: 2px; z-index: 10; pointer-events: none; }
.progress span { display: block; height: 100%; width: 0; background: var(--jade); }
.story-head { max-width: 54rem; margin-inline: auto; padding: 3.5rem 1.5rem 2.75rem; text-align: center; }
.story-head .crumbs { justify-content: center; }
.story-head h1 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: clamp(2.5rem, 5.8vw, 4.4rem); line-height: 1.02; letter-spacing: -0.015em; margin: 0 auto 1.3rem; max-width: 17ch; }
.story-head .dek { margin-inline: auto; font-size: 1.28rem; max-width: 34em; }
.story-hero { margin-block: 0 3.5rem; }
.story-body { max-width: calc(var(--measure) + 3rem); margin-inline: auto; padding-inline: 1.5rem; }

.toc { border-top: 1px solid var(--ink); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); padding: 1rem 0 1.25rem; margin: 0 0 3.5rem; }
.toc-label { font-size: 0.72rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; margin: 0 0 0.8rem; }
.toc ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 0.45rem; }
.toc a { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 7.5rem minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 0.75rem; color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; font-size: 0.98rem; line-height: 1.4; }
.toc a span { color: var(--jade); font-size: 0.7rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; padding-top: 0.22rem; }
.toc a:hover { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; text-underline-offset: 3px; }

.chapter { margin: 0 0 3.75rem; scroll-margin-top: 1.5rem; }
.marker { display: flex; align-items: center; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.35rem 0.75rem; font-size: 0.72rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--jade); margin: 0 0 0.9rem; }
.marker::before { content: ""; width: 1.75rem; height: 1px; background: currentColor; }
.marker .place { color: var(--muted); }
.marker .place::before { content: "\00B7"; margin-right: 0.75rem; }
.chapter-body h2 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: clamp(1.85rem, 3.2vw, 2.35rem); line-height: 1.12; margin: 0 0 1.25rem; }
.chapter-body h2:not(:first-child) { margin-top: 2.75rem; }
.chapter-body p, .chapter-body li { font-family: var(--read); font-size: 1.14rem; line-height: 1.75; }
.chapter-body > p { margin: 0 0 1.35rem; }
.chapter-body > p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; }
.chapter-body i, .chapter-body em { font-style: italic; }
.story-body > .chapter:first-of-type .chapter-body > p:first-of-type::first-letter {
  font-family: var(--display); float: left; font-size: 4.9rem; line-height: 0.8; padding: 0.45rem 0.6rem 0 0; color: var(--jade);
}
.voice { margin: 2.6rem 0; padding-left: 1.5rem; border-left: 2px solid var(--jade); font-family: var(--display); font-size: 1.75rem; line-height: 1.28; }
.voice cite { display: block; margin-top: 0.85rem; font-family: var(--ui); font-size: 0.72rem; font-style: normal; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); }
.voice cite::before { content: "\2014\00A0"; content: ""; }

.chapter.tips-card .chapter-body { background: var(--block); padding: 2.1rem 2.1rem 1.6rem; border-radius: 3px; }
.chapter.tips-card { margin-bottom: 3rem; }
.chapter-body ul.tips { margin: 0 0 1.25rem; padding-left: 1.15rem; }
.chapter-body ul.tips li { margin-bottom: 0.7rem; padding-left: 0.25rem; font-size: 1.06rem; line-height: 1.65; }
.chapter-body ul.tips li::marker { color: var(--jade); }
.disclosure { font-size: 0.85rem !important; color: var(--muted); border-left: 2px solid var(--jade); padding-left: 0.75rem; }

.story-foot { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem 2rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); padding-block: 1.4rem 4rem; }
.share { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 0.6rem; font-size: 0.85rem; color: var(--muted); }
.share button { font: inherit; font-size: 0.8rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.06em; color: var(--ink); background: none; border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 999px; padding: 0.4rem 1rem; cursor: pointer; }
.share button:hover { border-color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- newsletter (hidden until a provider is set up) ---------- */
.newsletter { padding-block: 0 4rem; }
.nl-box { background: var(--block); border-radius: 3px; padding: 2.5rem; text-align: center; }
.nl-box h2 { font-family: var(--display); font-weight: 400; font-size: 2rem; margin: 0 0 0.5rem; }
.nl-box p { color: var(--muted); margin: 0 auto 1.25rem; max-width: 40ch; }
.nl-box form { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: center; gap: 0.6rem; max-width: 30rem; margin-inline: auto; }
.nl-box input[type=email] { flex: 1 1 14rem; font: inherit; padding: 0.6rem 0.85rem; border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 3px; background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); }
.nl-box button { font: inherit; font-weight: 600; padding: 0.6rem 1.2rem; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); cursor: pointer; }
.nl-box .consent { flex-basis: 100%; font-size: 0.8rem; color: var(--muted); }

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.site-foot { border-top: 1px solid var(--ink); padding-block: 3rem 2rem; font-size: 0.92rem; }
.foot-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 2fr) repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 2.5rem 2rem; }
.foot-brand p { color: var(--muted); max-width: 30ch; margin: 1rem 0 0; }
.site-foot .wordmark b { font-size: 1.6rem; }
.site-foot .wordmark .mark { width: 1.6rem; height: 1.6rem; }
.site-foot h2 { font-size: 0.7rem; font-weight: 600; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); margin: 0.35rem 0 1rem; }
.site-foot ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 0.55rem; }
.site-foot ul a { color: var(--ink); text-decoration: none; }
.site-foot ul a:hover { color: var(--jade); }
.foot-base { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem 1rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); margin-top: 3rem; padding-top: 1.25rem; font-size: 0.8rem; color: var(--muted); }
.foot-base a { color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; }
.foot-base a:hover { color: var(--ink); }

/* ---------- 404 ---------- */
.lost h1 { font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 5vw, 3.8rem); line-height: 1.05; max-width: 18ch; }

/* ---------- smaller screens ---------- */
@media (max-width: 960px) {
  .dest-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .feature { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.75rem; padding-block: 2rem 3.5rem; }
  .card-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .foot-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr)); }
  .foot-brand { grid-column: 1 / -1; }
  .row { gap: 2rem; }
}
@media (max-width: 640px) {
  body { font-size: 16px; }
  .wrap, .story-body { padding-inline: 1.15rem; }
  .masthead .wrap { padding-block: 1rem; gap: 0.6rem; }
  .wordmark b { font-size: 1.6rem; }
  .wordmark .mark { width: 1.6rem; height: 1.6rem; }
  .wordmark span { font-size: 1rem; }
  .nav { gap: 0.4rem 1.4rem; }
  .card-grid, .card-grid.two { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 2.75rem; }
  .row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.1rem; padding-block: 2rem; }
  .story-head { padding: 2.25rem 1.15rem 2rem; }
  .story-head .dek { font-size: 1.15rem; }
  .story-hero { margin-bottom: 2.5rem; }
  .story-hero .cover { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; }
  .toc a { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 0; }
  .toc ol { gap: 0.7rem; }
  .chapter-body p, .chapter-body li { font-size: 1.08rem; line-height: 1.7; }
  .voice { font-size: 1.5rem; padding-left: 1.1rem; }
  .chapter.tips-card .chapter-body { padding: 1.5rem 1.2rem 1.1rem; }
  .quote-band { padding-block: 3.25rem; }
  .dest .cover { aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; }
  .dest-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 1.75rem; }
  .dest .more { margin-left: 0; }
  .foot-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .page-head { padding-block: 2.25rem 1.5rem; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  *, *::before, *::after { animation: none !important; transition: none !important; }
}
@media print {
  .masthead nav, .progress, .share, .site-foot nav, .story-hero, .toc { display: none; }
}